Alecs327 Tuning

Honda crx is back

This week, there’s breaking news of not just one reborn motoring legend, but two! While BMW’s plan to bring back Triumph is hot gossip in the UK, Japan is ready to see the return of one of its favourite past models: the Honda CR-X. The new CR-Z concept will be unveiled at Tokyo motor show.We won’t have to wait long for the coupé to appear in showrooms, either. The CR-Z is the final step in Honda’s development plan to bring the coupé to forecourts, and we could see a production version within a year.
Auto Express first heard rumours of the coupé’s comeback in 2004, but Honda didn’t give us an official clue until last year’s Los Angeles Motor Show, when it revealed the Remix. However, the company’s plans are now plain to see. Following the trend set by VW, where the Iroc concept previewed the forthcoming Scirocco, Honda is giving us a glimpse of the new CR-X with this – the CR-Z. Read whole article at Auto Express

Only one, where max boost / max power is required in full race, track application, where other considerations can be rejected, e.g. cost tobuild and develop, life expectancy etc.

Turbo Cons ( - )

Much higher boost pressure is needed in a turbo for the same bhp due to pressurized air being much hotter, due to conduction from red hot exhaust manifold.Much more complex management needed in a turbo, to control fueling and ignition due instantaneous rise of boost pressure.Higher pressures and temperatures encouraging detonation, turbo is the big engine destroyer.More intercooling needed to cool inlet air.Much higher under bonnet temperature making everything hotter and so reducing power.High under bonnet temperature reducing life of things like wiring looms and hoses.Much higher incidents of fire due to red hot turbo and manifold.Compromise exhaust manifold and system function due to restriction of turbo not letting the gas flow freely.Extra shock loadings on transmission because of sudden increase in power.

Supercharger Pros ( + )

Basically all the things the turbo is bad at the supercharger is good at.

Supercharger Cons ( - )

No dump valve to make a nice noise

For those building their own kit I would recommend always going to a supercharger 1 size above what the engine capacity suggests, as the price for the next size higher is quite small and if necessary put a restrictor in to reduce the boost. The reason I say this is that most people start off with quite modest expectations but as soon as they have it fitted they want MORE and if the supercharger they have already fitted is running at max capacity, they have to discard it and buy a complete new supercharger unit. This problem of running out of charger capacity is especially a problem if the engine is 1) High revving e.g. over 7000 rpm. 2) 16 valve unit, as they eat air quicker than 8 valves. 3) The compression is lowered.

Performance air filters has always been a starting point for those who want to take the first step into car tuning. This is because performance air filters are easy to apply and are not so expensive as other performance tuning components for your vehicle.
I believe the first reason that make all of us purchase a performance air filter for our cars is the sporty sound that we all like, but generally there is a belief that performance filters will give you lots of horse power, like a minimum of 5 hp, maybe more, even on a normally aspirated engine.
Now, if I say that performance air filters generate nothing except a sport sound, would you believe it? Your answer would normally be "No !"... Yes, performance air filters do increase horse power but only under certain conditions.. Please continue reading the article..

Performance air filters - The Theory
The theory here is, as you let more air to the combustion chambers to mix with the fuel, you get more power, but the first point is that under which conditions does the air flow and do performance air filters really provide more air as it has been told?
Aerodynamics, or let's call it air flow here, is so complicated so you can never be sure that the replacement of your conventional air filter with an open element filter (like K&N, Kingdragon or Green) will provide more air flow to the intake system

In-Box Applications
Let's discuss in-box applications like replacing the stock filter with a inbox K&N first, for those who want to apply that kind of air filter mods. On a test which made with a test air box measuring the flow resistance of air yielded the following results:
(The number 100% states the maximum flow resistance to the air, meaning the air is somehow obstructed maximum by the filter or the air box itself while passing through the combustion chambers. Numbers lower than 100 indicate that air flows more easily relatively to the conditions represented with the number 100. It is natural that the air will flow most easily if you detach the filter and the airbox, thus the lower number is 37.5 meaning the least resistance has exposed to the air.
stock box w/ filter 100 %stock box w/ K&N 100 %stock box w/o filter 100 %modified airbox (trimmed) w/filter 62.5%modified w/K&N 56 %individual filters 44 %manifold only 37.5%
This test has shown that changing the stock filter with an inbox performance filter like K&N is useless unless you make some mods to the airbox, but the most surprising result is that whether it's an original filter or a performance filter like K&N, if you take one of these filters out and apply the test again with an empty air-box, there is still the same resistance like there is a filter inside. That's really really hard to believe, but when you remember the test made with manifold only, you see that air still has a resistance of 37.5. So, that's aerodynamics we talked before which is so hard to understand, and it's not a big surprise that an airbox causes so much resistance.
It's clear that changing the stock filter with an in-box performance filter like K&N is useless unless you make some mods to the airbox, and it's clear that it's not usual to drive without filter and the box, so instead of modifying the box, why don't we use an open element cotton filter? We can get a result between 37.5 (the manifold only) and 56 (modified airbox with K&N).

Open Element Performance Air Filters

Normally, the air passing through the intake system is 21% oxygen while nitrous oxide is 33%. We all know that nitrous oxide is a power-boosting, complete and more expensive mod in tuning process, and I hope we all agree on the performance of this mod. Nitro increases the density of the oxygen in the air to 33% from 21%, which is still quite close to the natural density. Do you believe that a cotton performance filter can increase the density of the oxygen? No.. So, the only fact about the open element performance filters is that they only let some more air to pass through, and the most important question is that how much horsepower do we get from them?

Tests on dynamometers show that you will lose horsepower, not gain it if you don't find a way to duct cool air directly to the cone filter. Unshielded cone filters (K&N or any other) were reported to yield a net loss in horse power. The factory filter pulls cool air from outside the engine compartment, while open cone filters will pull warm air from the area behind the radiator. Warm air is less dense than cold, so this can cost between 6-13 HP. Cone filters like K&N and similars only raise the Hp's by 0-2 Hp's on a normally aspirated engine, however, on turbocharged or supercharged engines, the increase is somewhat higher like 8-10 HP, according to the power and vol. of the engine.
Another issue on performance air filters is that they only affect the top end, meaning close to redline. You can feel a power loss at low revs. And one other is that the cotton filters let in considerably more dirt (300-500% more) than stock. Filter allows more dust and fine dirt particles into the engine, but general consensus is that this should make no difference to engine wear.

Filter Maintenance
To maintain good filtration performance, regular cleaning and application of filter oil is necessary. Otherwise the performance will be worse than the original. The cleaning period depends on driving conditions but a 6 month period is acceptable for average maintenance time. Maintenance exist of two sections: Cleaning and oiling.. To clean the filter, pour some gasoline into something like a large, PVC bottle, and dip the filter into the gasoline for 1-2 hours. Rinse the filter and let it dry. Re-oil the filter by spraying the oil onto the inside surface. That's all..

Result
To get HP to increase, you need cold air... hot air will decrease HP. So find a way to isolate the filter. Use a special, large entry box that will help suck the cold air from outside the engine compartment, or cut the hood. Change your driving characteristics. Change gear at slightly higher revs, cause you will get power at high revs especially closer to redline. (I'm sure you also do that in any case, at least for hearing the sound Clean and re-oil your filter periodically. Even if you don't clean the filter, just re-oil it so you can be sure that the fine particles or dust can't pass through the filtering element.
To get HP to increase, you need cold air... hot air will decrease HP. So find a way to isolate the filter. Use a special, large entry box that will help suck the cold air from outside the engine compartment, or cut the hood.
Change your driving characteristics. Change gear at slightly higher revs, cause you will get power at high revs especially closer to redline. (I'm sure you also do that in any case, at least for hearing the sound.
Clean and re-oil your filter periodically. Even if you don't clean the filter, just re-oil it so you can be sure that the fine particles or dust can't pass through the filtering element.

Exhaust system purpose
The exhaust system reduces the pollutant constituents of the exhaust gas generated by combustion in the engine. The remaining exhaust gas is then discharged as quietly as possible at a convenient point of the vehicle. The engine power should be reduced as little as possible during the process.
Exhaust system design
A passenger-car exhaust system consists basically of three main components:
Catalytic Converter
The catalytic converter serves as an exhaust gas cleaning device for spark ignition (SI) engines (as does nowadays the oxidation catalytic converter in diesel engines). It is mounted as close as possible to the engine so that it can quickly reach its operating temperature and therefore be effective in urban driving. It is fitted as supplementary equipment in place of front mufflers, whose acoustical functions it also takes over in addition to its exhaust gas cleaning function. The acoustical changes in the vehicle must meed legal requirements.
Mufflers
Depending on the size of the vehicle and the engine, one or several mufflers are used. In V-engines the left and right cylinder banks are frequently run separately, each being fitted with its own catalytic converter of muffler, and only brought together at the end of the vehicle in one large muffler.
Exhaust Pipes
Exhaust pipes are the third and last component in the exhaust system. Exhaust pipes combine the exhaust gas outlets in the cylinder head into one or more pipes (manifolds), and also connect catalytic converter and mufflers to each other. The length and cross-section of exhaust pipes, as well as the type of junction used, influence the vehicle's performance characteristics and acoustic behavior. Exhaust systems for vehicles with larger swept volumes are therefore often fitted with twin pipes. Exhaust pipes, the catalytic converter, and mufflers are connected to the main body of the system by means of insert connections and flanges. Many original-equipment (OE) systems are welded into one complete element for faster mounting.The entire exhaust system is connected with the underbody of the vehicle via flexible suspension elements. The fixing points must be carefully selected, as otherwise vibration can be transmitted to the bodywork and thus generate noise in the passenger compartment. The exhaust system noise at the exhaust emission point (tailpipe) can also cause bodywork resonance.The total volume of the passenger car muffler system is approximately three to eight times the engine's swept volume. Depending on swept volume and the type of muffler, the exhaust system weighs between 8 and 40 kg.

Then as the Nitrous gas is heated up in the combustion process it breaks down releasing additional oxygen and increases the burn rate allowing more fuel to enter the combustion chamber. Different size nozzle jets offer larger boosts to the power ranging from 20bhp more to over 200bhp more. As well as sending Nitrous to the engine you will also need to supply additional fuel (Nitrous provides a cooler denser air charge, more oxygen, so will run Lean if more fuel is not delivered.) Obviously the engine has to be able to cope with this increased pressure and power so the jets are matched to the application. Most standard engines can cope with a 20 - 40 bhp shot. Forged pistons, forged steel rods and a heavy-duty cylinder head with up rated gasket and performance bolts and full balancing are required if you go for a major power increase.

A full range of Nitrous delivery systems are available for all applications of vehicles and engine types and can be matched to each cylinder in the engine. The common delivery systems are:-WET (The fuel and Nitrous are mixed and introduced together to the primary part of the intake. This system produces slightly more power than dry but cannot be applied to an engine with a dry intake typically most fuel injected engines.) DRY (The extra fuel required to maintain the burn balance from Lean to Rich is delivered by the injectors of the car. The primary part of the intake is kept dry of fuel.) FOGGER (Named after the Fogger Nozzle mixes the fuel and Nitrous mixture and sprays it directly into the cylinder. Each cylinder can be set up separately and additional foggers can be added creating a dual stage kit. Foggers generally produce the most significant power gains.)
A bottle warmer can assist with maintaining bottle pressure and delivering smooth power. To get an idea how much Nitrous remains in your bottle you need to weigh it – as the pressure gauge just indicates the pressure in the bottle and this can vary depending on temperature.
Adding Nitrous is a very easy high power modification. The refills can be a hidden cost though.
It is fairly easy to fit Nitrous to a vehicle within 4 to 6 hours although most insurance companies will not provide cover for road use. (As with all modifications your insurers must be notified.) A 10 lb bottle of Nitrous is good for about 3 minutes of boost (7-10 ¼ miles runs) but shouldn’t really be operated for more than 10-15 seconds at a time if you don’t want to blow up your engine.
Nitrous can also be applied to diesel engines a 130ps Golf TDI got almost double the power - but boy racers don’t buy diesels – well not until recently. Medical grade NoS does not have a smell added like automotive grade Nitrous (incidentally the smell added to car grade Nitrous is Hydrogen Sulfide, a very nasty additive that will cause permanent damage to lung tissues and nerve endings if deliberately inhaled for recreation!) So you can use medical grade Nitrous in a car but not vice versa!!!
When to press the Nitrous boost button – At or over 2500 RPM with the throttle fully depressed – you can buy a progressive boost system which matches the Nitrous shot to the throttle position and regulates the flow. You will receive an enormous increase of torque and this can result in a loss of traction – so be careful at speed as a loss of traction usually equals an impressive spin and crash.
Pressing the Nitrous button and then starting the engine can cause catestrophic engine damage. If the buttin is accidentally pressed - disengage the coil and turn the engine over a few times to clear the cylinders.
Suppliers of Nitrous injection systems are:- NOS, Wizards of NOS, Nitrous Express (NX), ZeX, Edelbrock, Holley Nos, Venom,Nitrous Solutions and MJS (You will find NOS, NX and Wizards of NOS.

Poate nu ai bani sa iti modifici masina? sau ai dar nu stii daca iese bine?
O varianta este sa incerci virtual tuningul. Prin virtual tuning iti modifici masina gratis pe computer cu diferite programe. Unul din cele mai bune este Adobe Photoshop.

Sisteme NOS
CompozitieOxidul de azot se compune din 2 parti nitrogen si o parte oxigen. La temperatura de 572 F oxidul de azot se descompune degajand in camera de ardere un surplus de oxigen. Oxigenul nu este singurul ce ajuta la dezvoltarea unei puteri mai mari prin proprietatile lui de a arde mai mult combustibil, odata oxidul injectat in camera de ardere el se transforma din stare lichida in stare gazoasa realizand o racire de -127 F. Un lucru important de stiut este ca, Oxidul de azot nu este inflamabil, o eventuala explozie poate rezulta in urma unei cantitati scazute de combustibil in camera de ardere.




Scurta istorie
Nos este un acronim pentru Nitrous Oxide Systems, sisteme de injectie cu oxid de azot. In prezent , NOS este si firma cea mai cunoscuta in productia de asemenea sisteme. In maniera " Xerox= copiator" , numele este folosit gresit pentru toate sistemele. In prezent, NOS face parte din grupul Holley. NOS au fost utilizate pentru imbunatatirea performantelor inca din al doilea razboi mondial, pe avioanele aliate. Dupa razboi, avioanele cu reactie au captat toata atentia , iar demodatele aeronave cu elice au trecut pe planul doi si, o data cu ele NOS. In urmatoarele trei decenii, cu exceptia catorva incercari de a utiliza technologia la masini de curse, peste NOS s-a asternut tacerea - o tacere ingrosata si de faptul ca NOS erau secrete, putini oameni avand acces la informatii. La jumatatea anilor '70 insa, NOS au iesit de sub cheie, devenind principalul subiect de conversatie in lumea auto. Desi existau uni producatori autorizati, sistemele functionau neregulat si cel mai frecvent rezultat obtinut era ca … NOS nu dadea rezultate. Lucrurile s-au schimbat insa in 1978 cand doi piloti de curse Mike Thermos si Dale Vaznaian , au mizat pe potentialul Oxidului de azot- folosit cum trebuie- si au creat compania Nitrous Oxide Systems.


Teoria
Cu totii am invatat la scoala ca puterea maxima dezvoltata de un motor depinde direct de puterea exploziilor care au loc in camera de ardere. Cu cat suplimentezi cantitatea de combustibil cu atat este mai puternica explozia, pistoanele sunt impinse cu mai multa forta si, deci, puterea este mai mare. Benzina nu arde insa fara oxigen deci mai multa benzina necesita mai mult oxigen pentru intretinerea procesului de ardere. Un carburator mai mare, valve mai generoase, supraalimentarea, turbinele si NOS sunt exemple clare despre cum poti creste consumul si arderea combustibilului. La primele patru posibilitati vom revenii cu alta ocazie pentru ca acum sa ne axam pe NOS.Oxidul de azot (N2O) nu este inflamabil si nu creste asa cum gresit cred unii cifra octanica a benzinei. Principiul de functionare este foarte simplu. Astfel, N2O este stocat sub presiune intr-o butelie la 900 - 1050 PSI (67- 70 de atmosfere) .In momentul in care este eliberat, N2O (lichid in butelei) trece in forma gazoasa iar temperatura ai scade brusc. Cum temperatura scazuta inseamna si volum redus, in cilindrii N2O si benzina vor ocupa mai putin spatiu, motorul avand astfel mai multe "lemne de foc". In plus la zeci de atmosfere si sute de grade Celsius N2O se descompune in Oxigen si Azot. Exista trei tipuri de baza de sisteme cu Oxid de Azot : Uscate, Umede, Direct port.



Sisteme NOS "uscate" si "umede"
Un sistem NOS "uscat" este doar o denumire pretentioasa pentru faptul ca benzina necesara pentru producerea puterii suplimentare este introdusa prin injectoarele originale, montate de producatorul motorului. In ceea ce priveste oxidul de azot, el este pulverizat in conducta de aer. Tehnic vorbind, amestecul de aer, combustibil si N2O - cu o temperatura foarte scazuta - se va "lasa" intotdeauna in partea de jos a cilindrului, lasand partea superioara "uscata". La majoritatea sistemelor obiectivul este atins prin intermediul a doua interventii simultane in functionarea sistemului de injectie. In primul rand, la nivelul injectorului, presiunea fluxului de benzina este crescuta, la pornirea sistemului, cu ajutorul solenoizilor - parte integranta a sistemului cu oxidul de azot. Actiunea determina aproape instantaneu o crestere puternica a fluxului de benzina - la fel ca in situatia in care deschizi brusc robinetul de la furtunul de gradina de la jumatate la maximum. A doua modalitate pentru a se adauga cantitatea necesara de benzina este cresterea duratei in care injectorul sta in pozitia "deschis". Acest lucru se realizeaza prin schimbarea parametrilor pe care- i citeste Unitatea Centrala (Central Processing Unit, CPU) sau computerul de bord al masinii. Spus pe scurt, computerul este "pacalit" sa livreze mai mult combustibil. In ambele situatii, oxidul de azot este si el prezent iar cantitatea de benzina arsa este mai mare, obtinandu- se astfel mai multa putere.Spre deosebire de sistemele "uscate", cele "umede" adauga benzina si oxidul de azot in acelasi timp si in acelasi loc, de regula, cu 8 - 10 centimetrii inainte de clapeta de acceleratie in cazul motoarelor cu injectie sau imediat sub carburator. Astfel, partea superioara a cilindrului va fi in permanenta "umeda"- de unde si numele sistemului. NOS de acest tip sunt cele mai potrivite pentru motoarele turbo si pentru cele supraalimentate. Acest lucru este cauzat de faptul ca diferentele de densitate dintre benzina, aer si oxid de azot pot determina probleme de distributie si, in unele cazuri, rateuri in admisie. De asemenea, din cauza ca sistemele moderne de injectie au un design compact (traseul amestecului aer/ combustibil fiind mult mai intortocheat), ele nu sunt foarte bune candidate pentru montarea unui sistem "umed".

















1. Adaptor pentru robinetul buteliei
2. Garnitura
3. Soclu butelie
4. Butelie N2O
5. Injector Plate
6. Prezoane carburator
7. Garnituri carburator
8. Solenoid N2O
9. Solenoid benzina
10. Adaptor montaj solenoid N2O
11. Adaptor garnitura de compresie
12. Suport montaj solenoid N2O
13. Adaptor
14. Legatura by-pass formata de solenoidul NOS
16. Filtru benzina
19. Furtun alimentare N2O
20. Furtun combustibil
21. Switch acceleratie
22. Furtun universal
















Sisteme NOS "direct port"
Al treilea si ultimul tip de sistem cu oxid de azot este cel al sistemelor NOS "direct port" , sisteme ce se pot folosi numai pentru motoarele cu injectie de benzina multipunct. Asa cum arata si numele sau, un asemenea sistem introduce amestecul de benzina si oxid de azot direct in fiecare cilindru, prin intermediul injectoarelor originale. Datorita modului de montare si a celui de functionare , NOS "direct port" sunt de altfel si cele mai performante si mai puternice sisteme de acest tip. Pe scurt, avantajele sunt determinate de injectia amestecului direct in fiecare cilindru, dar si de posibilitatea montarii mai multori solenoizi de capacitate crescuta. Tehnic vorbind, un NOS "direct port" dispune de un ansamblu sistem de distributie solenoizi si datorita faptului ca injectia se realizeaza independent, cantitatea de amestec poate fi reglata pe un anume cilindru, fara a se modifica parametrii pentru ceilalti cilindrii. Pe de alta parte, sisteme "direct port" sunt si cele mai complicate, daca luam in consideratie operatiunile de montaj. Astfel injectorul trebuie gaurit, frezat si polizat. Iar dupa aceste operatiuni trebuie sa te asiguri ca nici un obstacol sau materie reziduala nu obstructioneaza fluxul de amestec benzina- oxid de azot. Din aceste motive, precum si din cauza puterii foarte ridicate furnizate de aceste sisteme, NOS "direct port" se preteaza mai degraba pentru masinile de curse sau "kit - cars" decat pentru masina de familie. In concluzie, un NOS "direct port" ce ofera un supliment de 100- 300 Cp poate fi montat pe motoare proiectate pentru a suporta de 2- 3 ori mai multa putere decat in varianta de serie. La acest capitol, V8- urile americane de mare capacitate stau cel mai bine, pentru ca la polul opus sa se situeze motoarele I4 cel mai des intalnite in Japonia si Europa